Just a few decades ago, if you had asked our parents what color gold is, they would have unequivocally answered – red. In this article, we will talk about gold colors and their variety, discussing how different fineness and colors are related to gold. Proverbs say that something is as yellow as gold. Well, in recent years, people have preferred white and red gold. So what determines the variety of gold colors?
Gold colors: basic colors
Neither our ancestors nor modern gold enthusiasts are wrong – gold can be all of these colors. Red, white, and yellow are the basic colors of gold, and there are also other, rarer shades.
First, let’s find out how gold color is obtained. Pure, raw gold is bright yellow, but it is very soft, so for many years an alloy of various additional metals has been added to it, which is used to provide strength and change the gold. The color depends on the type of metal added to the gold – for example, silver or copper. Due to the proportions of these metals, the color and strength of the gold and other metal alloy change. It’s like a cocktail – if you pour more syrup, it will be sweeter; more alcohol – stronger. It’s the same when melting a gold alloy. A gold fineness of 585 indicates that in 1000 grams (1 kilogram) there are 585 grams of pure, already refined gold, and everything else is additional materials, usually other precious metal components. Jewelry is classified according to fineness, and fineness applies to all precious metal alloys. What are the proportions? It is often a secret of the jeweler or the company, because after all, everyone wants to have their own unique cocktail recipe that gives a special gold color.
Gold fineness and color
When choosing gold jewelry, two things are most important – gold fineness and color. Gold fineness and color determine not only the appearance of the piece but also its value and durability. Gold fineness indicates how much pure gold is in the alloy, and the color depends on which metals the gold is mixed with. The color of pure gold is yellow, but gold is quite soft, so it is usually mixed with other metals to make it stronger and to achieve the desired shade.
Gold fineness is measured in the metric system – for example, 585 fineness means that in 1000 parts of the alloy, there are 585 parts of pure gold, and the rest are other metals. In Lithuania, the most popular are 585 (14 karat) and 750 (18 karat) gold fineness. The higher the fineness, the more pure gold is in the jewelry, but at the same time, it becomes softer and more sensitive to scratching. Lower fineness gold is more practical for everyday wear because it is stronger and more resistant.
Gold’s color is yellow, but it can be changed when gold is mixed with other metals. Yellow gold is the classic option, which usually contains impurities of copper, silver, palladium, or zinc. Red gold is obtained when copper dominates the alloy, and white gold is obtained when gold is mixed with white metals such as palladium or platinum. Each of these metals gives the gold alloy a unique color and properties.
The Lithuanian Assay Office plays an important role – they check and mark gold fineness so that every piece of jewelry meets the specified standards. Gold fineness is marked with a special Lithuanian state control mark, which guarantees that the product contains as much pure gold as indicated.
It is important to know that the color of gold does not determine the value of the jewelry – it is determined by the gold fineness. Therefore, when choosing a piece of jewelry, it is worth paying attention not only to the color but also to the fineness, as both the price and longevity depend on it. Gold colors can vary, but the value is always determined by the amount of pure gold in the alloy.
Green, blue, black, brown…
Yes, all these colors can be gold colors and used in jewelry making. True, brighter shades are often obtained not only from the alloy itself but also by coating the product – a special metal or material is used for this. In this way, a unique gold color can be created that reflects individuality and a sense of style.
Various shades of white gold, obtained by coating the surface of the jewelry, are now becoming popular. Do you want an icy glow? We will do it by coating with rhodium, which is often used for white gold products. Do you want it to look like platinum? We will do that too, because there is a grayer version of white gold. Each of these solutions subtly changes the color of gold, allowing for both classic and modern effects.
Yellow and red gold are increasingly blurring the line between them, as soft or bright pink, orange, or reddish gold appears – these shades are obtained from an alloy of copper and other metals. Sometimes you can’t tell what the base of this cocktail is – yellow or red gold? Such shades create an extremely romantic and warm variation of gold color.
For those who like originality, jewelry made of bluish gold is offered – it is unexpected, but an increasingly common gold color, emphasizing creativity and uniqueness. There are also other, rarer shades, such as green or black gold, which are obtained using a specific alloy or coating technologies.
Admire a light purple gold product – this gold color looks extremely subtle and elegant.
That’s why we say that there are 50 colors of gold, because in fact – gold can be of any color, as well as other, rarer shades, and not as our parents thought, that it’s only red. Each color of gold has its own character, mood, and meaning, so when choosing a piece of jewelry, you can find exactly that shade that best reflects you.
